Morning at Karanga Camp is simple and serene. Rocks and shrubs form a modest terrain. Above a bright sun lights crystal blue skies. In the distance Mount Meru pokes through an ocean of pillowy clouds. Kilimanjaro's peak appears in full resolution. Destiny waits patiently.
After breakfast the porters gather. We sense what's coming.
Jambo! Jambo Bwana!
The party begins.
Habari Gani!
Nzuri Sana!
Wageni! Mwakaribishwa!
Kilimanjaro!
Hakuna Matata!
A fury of powerful songs and ritualistic chants proceed. They sing with full force, firing us up.
It quickly becomes clear they are better dancers than we are. Combined, they draw from an impressive deck of dance moves. The faux-Gucci-sweater wearing porter known as Mr. Mosquito flaunts his cripple-to-break dancer routine. Another, the leg air guitar. Even Jonas, the elder statesman of the group, throws down some heat. My suspicion that porters moonlight as extras in rap videos increases.
We try our best to match them, but we’re cardboard boxes in comparison. Mishka responds with an Eastern European Kazachock. I show off my surprisingly flexible get-low-grooves. Manu runs across scoring high-fives. Stefan surprises everyone with his own breakdancing.
The rally simmers. Riled up, we venture on with charged spirits.
Today's journey is comical in contrast with what we've done so far. Our smooth windswept trail is devoid of obstacles. Jagged rocks shatter like ceramic pots beneath our feet. We crank up the music and the silliness. We troll each other between frequent photoshoots. We’re revert to a roving dance party. Chef Shuku cameos as a guide along with Mudi and Jonas. Each join in on the shenanigans.
Fun group! Very fun! Shuku cheers. I like it I love it! They’re having as much fun with us as we are with them.
In what feels like a flash we arrive to Barafu, aka Base Camp. It’s the final stop before The Big Day. For most of us it's the highest point we've ever been.
Stepping into Barafu is the closest I’ve been to a moon landing. Nothing survives long on this barren micro planet. Non-human life is absent. The palate is fifty shades of rock. Weather turns on a dime. Mawenzi's crowned peak in the distance seems suitable to incinerate a ring of absolute power. Our peak hides behind clouds.
Through open skies the sun beams in full force. Despite the altitude it's warm enough for shirtless sunbathing, which some do. The group’s spirit borderlines euphoria. Showing off, Dani claims victory in a pushup contest. Stefan and Manu pose and flex. Chloe lounges with her journal. I become a client at Decca’s makeshift hair salon. Cleaning my hair, even just a little, feels amazing. Only Zach tempers his enthusiasm.
I also felt good this time last year too....he says with a hint of warning.
The altitude doesn’t affect me…until it does. I rush up camp to send a quick text on a boulder. Apparently I break some unspoken high-altitude speed limit, run out of breath, and remind myself where I am.
Pole Pole.
Clouds cover the sun. Within a minute freezing winds blast us. With our sun party over, Jonas summons us for lunch. You must eat! Tomorrow is a long day! We obey his commands.
Heading into tomorrow I allow myself some confidence. I feel as good as I possibly can. I’ve conquered every hike without issue. I’m handling the altitude well. My energy levels are high. Other than some minor aches and pains my body feels great. Training has me dialed in. Everyday was some variation of heavy sleds, long weighted hikes, core work, lunges, saunas and cold plunges.
But I don’t let myself get cocky. Tenting with Zach that day I notice him becoming tenser by the hour. It’s the hardest thing I’ve ever done, he says about his first summit. I thought I might have died on this mountain.
Because he’s a madman, the first time Zach summitted Kilimanjaro he did so with a week's notice, no training and blind self confidence in place of altitude medicine. He’s corrected those mistakes this time around. In a way, tomorrow is as much a mystery to him as it is the rest of us.
The nature of tomorrow, The Big Day, means we have to sleep now in the afternoon in order to wake up at night. I find this impossible and settle for lying motionless for hours to preserve as much energy as I can. Mercifully for him, Zach knocks out. We’ll need every bit of energy possible.
For tonight, we dine in Frosty Hell.